Been thereJune 2025

McLeod Ganj

Himachal Pradesh, India

Sunrise over McLeod Ganj — pastel rooftops stacked on the hillside, deodar forest all around and the Dhauladhars fading into morning haze.

The sun rising over McLeod Ganj with colourful rooftops and forested mountains

The base camp town

McLeod Ganj was my base for the Triund and Laka Glacier trek in June 2025. It sits on a ridge above Dharamshala, at roughly 2,000 metres, and it's home to the Tibetan government in exile and the residence of the Dalai Lama — so the streets are a mix of monks, trekkers, cafés, prayer flags and momo stalls.

Morning after the trek

The photo at the top of this page is the one I like most from the whole trip. I took it at about seven in the morning on 13 June, the day after coming down from Laka Glacier: the sun just clearing the ridge, the town still quiet, and the whole hillside of teal and red rooftops catching the first light. After two days of rock, fog and cold, a slow morning looking over the town felt earned.

McLeod Ganj rooftops and forest in the soft morning light
McLeod Ganj rooftops and forest in the soft morning light

Why start the trek here

The Triund trail starts just above town, at the Gallu Devi temple beyond Dharamkot. Staying in McLeod Ganj or Dharamkot means you can leave early on foot, avoid the afternoon clouds on the ridge and still be at Triund by lunchtime.

What I'd do again

  • Catch the sunrise from a rooftop on the upper side of town
  • Spend a rest day here after the trek rather than rushing back to Delhi
  • Walk to Bhagsu and Dharamkot — both are an easy stroll away

Continue the story: the Triund trek and Laka Glacier.

Hillside of McLeod Ganj buildings under hazy morning light
13 June, 7 am
Grassy slope above McLeod Ganj looking over the valley
Above town before the climb
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